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Marinated chicken layered with part-cooked basmati and saffron milk, then steamed sealed so every grain takes on the spice. The lid stays on until it reaches the table.
Mix the 900 g chicken thighs with the 250 g yogurt, the 20 g garlic, the grated ginger, the biryani masala, the garam masala, the turmeric, the chopped chillies, half the herbs, the juice of the lemon and 8 g of the salt. Chill for 30 minutes.
Slice the 4 onions thinly and fry in the 6 tablespoons ghee over medium heat for 15 to 18 minutes until deep brown and crisp. Lift half onto paper towel for the top and leave the rest in the pot.
Add the marinated chicken to the pot with the onions and cook uncovered over medium heat for 15 minutes until the yogurt tightens around the meat and the oil comes to the surface.
Rinse the 3 cups basmati until the water runs clear and soak for 20 minutes. Boil it in plenty of salted water with the cardamom, cinnamon and bay leaves for 5 minutes only, until the grains bend but still have a hard centre, then drain.
Spread the rice over the chicken in an even layer, scatter the reserved fried onions and the remaining herbs, and pour over the saffron steeped in the 60 ml warm milk.
Cover with a tight lid or foil under the lid and cook on the lowest heat for 25 minutes, then rest off the heat for 10 minutes without lifting the lid. Fold it up from the bottom with a flat spoon to serve.
